![]() This keeps the sensitive signal wiring away from the power supply wiring.Ĭonnect cables from the power supply to the mainboard, from the power supply to the control board and from the control board to the headphone board.Ĭonnect the power inlet cable, and bolt the ring of the earth cable to the chassis using the fifth large black countersunk bolt, toothed washer, spring washer and nut. The headphone cables are tied together with the two included zip ties and oriented to run along the side of the enclosure beneath the lip of the side extrusion. Hook the front panel into place and connect the cables as shown. Note also the orientation of the two side brackets, the larger flange goes toward the bottom edge of the front./gal Note the position of the hole marked where you must not install a screw, or you will damage the display. Fit the headphone board to the panel with 2 panhead screws.įit the display and control board to the front panel using the five remaining panhead screws and two retaining brackets. Locate the front panel and the headphone board. It helps to have a proper TX10 screwdriver for this. Then install the 16 countersunk screws into the sockets and tighten the three pinhead screws into the base of the enclosure. Using the end of the small Allen key, carefully manipulate the trigger jacks until they seat home into the back panel. If you find you have difficulty seating the sockets into the back panel, you will probably find the trigger jacks are at fault. The socket holes are machined to a tight tolerance. You have to position the sockets into the back panel, hooking the release buttons of the input connectors into place. Three pinhead screws go through the holes in the front of the board, through the standoff and into the bottom of the enclosure. This is the most challenging parts it the three standoffs are not threaded. ![]() Similar to the front panel brackets, feed a screw through the panel, put a spring washer behind and screw into the side extrusions.įit the add-on blanking plate to the back panel using 2 small black screws, 2 spring washers and 2 nuts.įit the mainboard. Connect the earth wire to the top terminal of the IEC inlet.įit the back panel to the enclosure using four large black countersunk screws and four spring washers. Connect the brown live cable from the power supply inlet cable to the opposite side of the switch, and the neutral (blue) cable to the middle terminal on the IEC inlet. For the switch to the slot above with the terminals furthest from the edge of the panel.Ĭonnect the wire with the two spades at either end between the live (bottom) terminal on the IEC inlet and the terminal of the switch furthest from the end of the back panel. Locate the back panel and fit the IEC inlet into place with the fuse drawer to the bottom. The power supply is positioned with the power inlet socket adjacent to the left-hand side of the enclosure. Install the power supply into the base of the enclosure using the 5 black countersunk screws. Use the four large silver countersunk screws through the countersunk hole in each bracket, put a spring washer behind with the dome facing outwards, and screw the brackets into the front end of the side extrusions. Install a washer onto each screw, thread the screw for the foot then through the side extrusion and into the tapped hole in the base. Discard the screws that come in the pack with the feet. Fit the side extrusions to the base panel using the four longer countersunk screws and spring washers. It also helps to have an ice cube tray or pill box to organise the various screws and washers before you start. Everything you need is included, even the tools – besides a 5.5 mm spanner or combination pliers. The preamp comes packaged in recyclable cardboard packaging, with each component bagged and neatly laid out. For now I wanted to document the build and show how easy it is for anyone to construct this high-end preamp, regardless of experience or technical ability. I’ll explore the preamp’s features, pros and cons in an article in due course. ![]() ![]() It’s limited in connectivity though, with only three inputs, though there are add-on modules planned for the future and its output options and triggering are relatively comprehensive. Unlike the company’s DSP solutions which are well-regarded and have been in the market for some time, the preamplifier is a fully analogue design though with modern conveniences including remote control, flexible signal routing, and a large monochrome display. The DIY preamplifier kit from Hypex is a brand new product fresh off the production line. This entry was posted in Preamps Tutorials and tagged Amplifier DIY Hypex Preamplifier Tutorial Tutorials on Decemby Ashley (updated on December 27, 2022) ![]()
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